HHIP 3901-5038 ER-40 Collet Chuck, 132 mm Diameter x 42 mm Height

I appreciated the schematic included in the description photos. I would have had no way of knowing it would fit my lathe without it. I have a Grizzly G0765 7x14 mini-lathe that is the same size as many of the Chinese mini-lathes. This bolted perfectly right on the face plate. I gauged it to make sure it was running true, and it does. Mine came with a wrench, so no need to purchase one. The only thing I would change about it is some way to grip the base while using the wrench on the nut. It is slick and with an oil film on your hands and the base and no grooves to hold with a wrench it is hard to hold while turning the nut with the wrench. I solved this with an old oil filter wrench that I taped a couple of pieces of old inner tube to for grip. It holds the base tightly so I can wrench it tight or loose. Easy in and out on the collets, it does a great job and runs true. Happy with it and it stays on my metal lathe 90% of the time.

I have a Sherline lathe and mill and the standard faceplate that comes with the lathe is too small to accommodate this chuck. The chuck will not mount directly onto the spindles which have both (internal) #1 Morse Taper and (external) 3/4-16 threads. I think that this chuck would be a lot better if the baseplate weren't so massive. As it is, you need an additional adapter in order to mount it to a spindle. I used an HHIP adapter for this purpose HHIP 3" Backplate. However, these two are not ready to fit together. The insert on the small end of the adapter is too large to fit into the recess on the chuck so it has to be machined down by about 1mm. After doing this they fit together snuggly (see photo). The backplate on the adapter is also overkill and is too massive in my opinion to be ideal for its purpose. When you do join the adapter and chuck together they make one big hunk of steel. They take up over an inch of additional X-Axis to accommodate the bulk beyond what would be necessary for an ideal chuck. But on the plus side, the chuck looks like it is made out of good stainless steel and has a good smooth feel to it when turning the ER-32 Chuck Nut. I wish I could say the same about the adapter. Its 3/4-16 threads look pretty ragged and I have a tough time mounting it straight on the spindle without some very bad runout. That is not the fault of this chuck.

ER collets are amazing for small home machine shop work. This chuck is cheap and cheerful and does a great job.I was able to get runout to about .001" by trying each of the three possible mounting positions--I used a punch to mark the best of 3.Don't forget to order a spanner wrench for the collets, and while you are at it, find a piece of 5/16" steel to fashion a tommy bar.

This ER32 collet chuck fits perfectly on my Harbor Freight 7x10 mini lathe.Just used some M6 bolts and nuts to attach it.You really do have to drill a hole for a Tommy bar.I first used a center punch, then a pilot then a few bits to get to about 1/4".It’s the smallest steel rod I had. I turned the rod a little so it would fit the hole.Also knurled the top half. Probably not totally necessary but its makes griping it easier and looks nicer.I think its about 9-10" long. I wanted it long enough that it couldn’t rotate around the chuck.It’s a safety thing, no matter where it goes, it will hit something and not whip around.Note that it does come with a collet wrench but I would get a better one.I bought this one https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B01M6CKW3S/ref=ppx_od_b_detailpages00?ie=UTF8&psc=1I am very happy with it.

I saw a review that said, "It's a hunk of metal; hard to mess up" or something to that effect. There is a LOT that can be messed up on this piece. Concentricity, runout, accuracy, parallelism and surface finish all add up to make or break a piece of precision tooling. I didn't want to risk a bargain basement item not being accurate so I spent a little more and got a reputable brand.There are 3 holes in the edge of the chuck for a Tommy bar. Big plus! A 5/16" bar fit so an 8mm bar probably would also fit. It comes with a hook type wrench. The inside radius of the wrench is smaller than the OD of the ER40 collet nut so the wrench only contacts the nut at the notch and the other end of the radius. It looks like a good start to slipping off of the nut. Since the ER40 collets will be used on both the lathe and mill I'll be ordering a pair of the wrenches that have closed circle ends like https://www.amazon.com/uxcell-Collet-Spanner-Clamping-Non-slip/dp/B098JKMPG3/ref=sr_1_10?crid=27GW12BOWE1YL&keywords=er40%2Bwrench&qid=1701042827&sprefix=er40%2Bwrench%2Caps%2C101&sr=8-10&th=1.The whole point to me of using ER collets is the accuracy they offer. The collet chuck is very nice for the price. It has the usual issues of less than premium tooling. All of the drilled holes had sharp edges, quickly remedied with a Noga hand held countersink. The male threads for the nut looked perfect but to the fingers they were a little prickly. Literally two swipes with 320 grit emery cloth and they were smooth. The collet nut spins on very smoothly. I wasted no time getting it mounted on the lathe. I already had a backplate with a 72mm boss machined onto it so after a quick resurfacing the chuck was mounted. The screws required are M8x1.25 and with my backplate 35mm long would have been perfect. I used what was available; 40mm and they are about 3/8" too long but don't interfere with anything. I'll shorten them later. I immediately tested the runout with a dial test indicator inside the taper of the chuck and got almost no movement of the needle. There was so little that I would have to attribute it to the spindle bearings. That test completed, I snapped a 1/2" collet into the nut. The collet snapped in easily with a nice little click. Not having a test bar I chucked a 1/2" end mill into the collet, snugged it up and ran another runout test. The needle moved no more than .0002". I haven't made anything with the collets and chuck yet but have no doubt my accuracy should improve over the 5C collets I've been using.

I bought a blank adapter plate and machined it to fit my lathe spindle and then machined the other side to fit this chuck. It runs within 1/2 a thou. (0.0005" )I was a bit disappointed by the wrench they supplied with the chuck. It is the wrong size in my opinion but it does sort of work. I had a more suitable one that came with another device so I use it instead.

Le Chuck de 100mm fit parfaitement sur mon tour vevor de 7x14

The product is of good quality for the price, arrived quickly, and was as described - with one exception. In the online drawing, the internal bore which mates with the lathe backing plate for concentricity is specified as 53.975 mm dia. with a very tight tolerance. The design has apparently been altered, as the bore was about 52.0 mm. As I didn't have an inside micrometer to measure it to high precision, I had to proceed very slowly turning my backing plate with very light cuts as I approached the target diameter, testing after each one, to achieve a good tight location fit. I got a good result, but the task would have been easier and quicker if I had had the correct spec.

Securing the ER 32 collet chuck requires three metric M6x1 studs. Fortunately, M6 panhead bolts 35mm long work just fine, passing through the chuck and the lathe spindle flange and affixed by three M6 nuts. The finish of the parts is very good with no burrs, scoring, chatter marks, or discoloration. Part to part fit is smooth and effortless, and the included spanner is comfortable in my hand.

Easy to mount on a busy bee cx704 craftex lathe. Any 80mm 7x chinese lathe will accept these. You will need your own socket cap set screws. Better than the er32 adapter because you can use the full diameter of the collet for pas thru the headstock. Recommend if you are buying with er32 collet set that you buy the collets with the r8 adapter as well for use in your milling machine also.